For this assignment you will look for naturally occurring letters or manufactured products where letters appear. NO SIGNS, CLOTHING, BILLBOARDS…etc. Observe the worl around you and using the cameras on campus and at home do your best to find letters that will form words. We will create the words when we upload to your wordpress site.
GOAL: Photograph letters you find and create 5 words (minimum of 4-5 letters per word)
For this report assignment, you will select and research a photographer and their work using Google and the links above or the list of photographers provided. If you have a photographer you’d like to research not on the list please ask Mr. Solomon for approval. We want someone “historical” not a modern or present day photographer. Once decided, there are many books in class, which may be used for reference; however, these must stay in the room. Feel free to use them here during class or after school. You may use your computer for serious research during class time and the creation of your Google Slides/CANVA/Power Point or WordPress page presentation.
Presentation- using Google Slides SELECT ONE PHOTOGRAPHER
TITLE SLIDE: Photographers name and year of birth-death
BIO SLIDE: Short biography, bullet points on the style or genre of photography. What are they known for, etc…
Please select 10 photographs that you feel best represent the best of their work, think the GREATEST HITS! Each slide will include…
-Title of Photograph
-Year taken (if available)
Then in 2 paragraphs, of the 10 photographs you chose, please discuss TWO images that are your favorite and why they stood out to you, what do you like about the two images. What’s happening in the photograph or who’s in the photograph. Write the 2 paragraphs on a slide following the photographs you selected as your favorite/most important
Light orbs, fire wheels, light drawings, 3D light extrusions and more – they are all heaps of fun, super creative and surprisingly easy to do! There is no hard and fast rules for how to do them, but here is what works well.
All you need is your Camera, a tripod, some kind of light, maybe some string, LED lights, flashlights, Christmas lights or Light Sabers!
Get your camera on a tripod: Yep, you do need one, or at least, a place to rest the camera so that it doesn’t move during the photo, which can be quite a long time – 5, 10, 15, 30 seconds or even longer!
Frame up your shot: Best to do this now, before you start focusing etc., because on some lenses when you start zooming in and out to compose your shot, it throws off your carefully pre-set focus you will be doing next. Don’t forget to use MANUAL FOCUS and ensure that you’re shooting wide enough to fit in your whole intended light drawing.
Focusing: The basic trick here is that you have to pre-focus your camera with Manual Focus to ‘lock in’ the focus before you start taking shots, because as usual in these low-light situations, the camera will often struggle to find anything to focus on if you just leave it to it’s own devices. It’s easier to pre-focus with a friend – get them to go and stand where you’re intending to do your light painting, and then have them shine a torch or something at the camera, or alternatively you shine a torch on them to make them visible – either way, it should be pretty easy to focus on the lit subject.
Camera settings: I’d recommend using TV mode on your camera’s Mode Dial (this is the same as ‘S’ mode on non-Canon cameras). This is the mode where you select whatever length of shutter speed you want, and the camera works out what aperture /f # must go with that to produce a correctly exposed image.
Scroll your shutter speed out to whatever length you think you will require to do your light painting. Better too long than too short! 10 seconds (looks like 10 ” on the camera display) is plenty for a simple light drawing. Bigger more complex light painted scenes can take 30 seconds or more!
As for your ISO take it off the AUTO setting and try setting it to 100 or 200. This will allow the colors of the lights to much more vibrant and visible. If you would like to see more of the subject/person holding the light use a higher ISO like 400.
This is super easy – in theory! Pretty much all you’re doing is drawing an image in mid air with some kind of glowing light source (like a flash light, or it could be a glow stick, or whatever) and the path your light follows will trace itself into your photograph as a glowing trail. It’s actually harder than it looks to remember where you’ve already drawn – it’s like trying to draw with your eyes closed, but practice makes perfect.
Diptychs are two photographs; Triptychs are three that have been placed together to tell a single, intertwining story. While diptychs can be as unique as their creator’s imagination, the most popular ones can tell a simple story.
Photography is about visual communication: sharing stories, ideas, and feelings through images. A diptych of two images, or parts of two images, is an impact full storytelling tool. Look for thematic, composition, and other visual synergies that will make your diptychs more powerful than the sum of their parts.
Diptych and triptych come from the Greek meaning two (dip) or three (trip) fold (tych). Many modern artists create pieces that are designed to be on display together and the diptych and triptych have become very popular story telling devices.
As well as being great story-telling devices, diptychs and triptychs are visually pleasing and help make use of photos that may not work on their own.
There is no right or wrong when it comes to these composites so play, have fun and put together whatever feels right. Think complimentary images or think completely opposite images! Try color combinations, pictures with a running theme, things that show movement or photos that show the passage of time. The possibilities are endless!
GOAL: You will complete 6 sets of Diptych or Triptych combinations. You can choose to complete 6 diptych or 6 triptych combinations or a mix of both.
The shutter speed refers to the length of time the opening in the lens remains open to let light into the camera and onto the sensor. The shutter speed can be as fast as 1/10,000 of a second or as slow as several minutes.
How does your choice of shutter speed affect the photograph?
Fast shutter speeds have the effect of freezing motion in the scene you are photographing. Conversely, slow shutter speeds will blur motion in a scene. Both of these can be used to great creative effect.
The chart below shows how different shutter speeds would effect the sense of motion if you were photographing a person running. Fast shutter speeds will freeze the motion. This technique is often used in sports photography. The slower the shutter speed becomes, the more blurred the person running becomes in the photograph.
FROZEN MOTION: FAST SHUTTER SPEED
BLURRED MOTION:SLOW SHUTTER SPEED
GOAL: Using the Tv (Shutter Priority Mode) complete 10 photographs. Take 5 using a fast shutter speed and take 5 using a slow shutter speed. Title the assignment Shutter Priority and upload Motion Blur for slow speeds and Frozen Motion for fast speeds.
A beginning course that teaches students how to use a digital camera & digital darkroom skills
Designed to educate students on how to use industry standard digital editing software, hardware and digital camera equipment. Instruction in design, rules of composition, history of photography, master photographers and careers in photography are covered. The CA Visual Art Standards create the framework for students learning skills related to digital camera uses.
Simply put, aperture is a hole within a lens, through which light travels into the camera body. It is easier to understand the concept if you just think about our eyes. Every camera that we know of today is designed like human eyes. The cornea in our eyes is like the front element of a lens – it gathers all external light, then bends it and passes it to the iris. Depending on the amount of light, the iris can either expand or shrink, controlling the size of the pupil, which is a hole that lets the light pass further into the eye. The pupil is essentially what we refer to as aperture in photography. The amount of light that enters the retina (which works just like the camera sensor), is limited to the size of the pupil – the larger the pupil, the more light enters the retina.
2) Size of Aperture – Large vs Small Aperture
The iris of the lens that controls the size (diameter) of the aperture is called “diaphragm” in optics. The sole purpose of the diaphragm is to block or stop all light, with the exception of the light that goes through the aperture. In photography, aperture is expressed in f-numbers (for example f/5.6). These f-numbers that are known as “f-stops” are a way of describing the size of the aperture, or how open or closed the aperture is. A smaller f-stop means a larger aperture, while a larger f-stop means a smaller aperture. Most people find this awkward, since we are used to having larger numbers represent larger values, but not in this case. For example, f/1.4 is larger than f/2.0 and much larger than f/8.0.
3) What is Depth of Field?
One important thing to remember here, the size of the aperture has a direct impact on the depth of field, which is the area of the image that appears sharp. A large f-number such as f/32, (which means a smaller aperture) will bring all foreground and background objects in focus, while a small f-number such as f/1.4 will isolate the foreground from the background by making the foreground objects sharp and the background blurry.
GOAL: Using the Av (APERTURE PRIORITY MODE) complete 10 photographs using the same subject but one with the lowest f/stop and the other with the highest f/stop. Upload the photos side-by-side to compare and contrast the depth of field. (Total due 20 images)
Vantage Point and Frame are essential choices that must be made by photographers no matter what their ultimate goal for image making.
This act of choosing what to include and exclude, what is our central focus and what is on the periphery (outside the frame), as well as the vantage point and point of view of the camera provides context and meaning. The use of the photographic frame as constructed in the camera’s viewfinder is central to reflecting the intentional visual and conceptual concerns in how photographic meaning is considered.
Give particular attention to your use of the photographic frame and your vantage points
Shoot From A Low Angle: Bug/Worm’s Eye View
Shooting from a low angle is probably the most popular alternative to eye-level perspective photography. It can be challenging because you may have to squat, sit, kneel or lie down to capture your image. It’s worth the effort because it provides an out-of-the-ordinary look at your subject and the results can be stunning.
Start by identifying your subject and find a low angle to shoot from. You might even want to place your camera or iPhone on the ground for additional support. You can use leading lines or anything in the foreground to draw the viewer into your image.
Focus on the interesting angles you find when your camera is really close to the ground or better yet, on the ground, level with or looking up at your subject. You could also experiment with flipping your iPhone so the camera lens is closer to the ground. This will provide an even stronger low-angle effect.
Shoot From A High Angle: Bird’s Eye View
Looking down towards your subject is another way to get a new and unique angle with your perspective photography. You don’t necessarily need to climb to the top of a building to accomplish this, but that is one popular possibility. In fact, if you can gain access to the upper floors or the roof of a tall building, you can discover some amazing vantage points.
There are other ways to get above your subject, whether you’re standing on something that gives you a little lift or if you’re just naturally taller than your subject. It could be as simple as looking down into the cup of coffee you’re holding, with your feet and the ground beneath them included for depth.
You could also try this technique with portraits by having your subject lie on the ground or sit and look up at the camera. Just be sure the angle flatters them and enhances their appearance.
Go above and beyond your typical habits and present your surroundings from top to bottom. The view you create might serve as an exciting new perspective that you can use again and again, improving your photography in the process.
GOAL: While paying attention to your FRAME complete 5 Bird’s Eye View and 5 Bug’s Eye View photographs and upload the best to your individual websites. Title the assignment VANTAGE POINT AND FRAME